Brian Jørgensen
1 posts
Joined: 13/07/2007 22:24:37
Location: Græsted Denmark
Hydrolastic pipes replacement
Hey
Is it possible to replace hydro pipes without removing front subframe? Anybody having any practical experience with this using original pipes?.
I know it is possible on the rear subframe, lowering it towards the cabine.
Posted: Jan 29, 2013 09:19 AM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Hi Brian,
I used the copper replacement rather than nylon. I used the originals as a template but fitted them before putting the subframes back. There is very little room between the bulkhead and the subframe and although you may get the pipe through the hex connector is twice the width of the pipe so may not go in. There are also retaining clips behind the subframe that have to be manipulated. You should also have the 10mm felt pads between the bulkhead and subframe to kill the drumming vibration.
I think your best option will be to unbolt the exhaust at the rear and middle hangers and to drop the subframe beneath the front valance level so that it can be pushed forward slightly. This won't affect the steering but it will put load on the brake line between the master cylinder and brake switch t-piece so you might want to disconnect that along with the throttle and choke cables and earthing strap.
If you get stuck for reconditioning the hoses on your displacers I had mine done via the 1800 Owners club secretary. I can also verify that the hand held pumps available on ebay (converted grease pumps) work really well for refilling and maintaining the system if you haven't got access to a main dealer with the proper churchill pump.
Posted: Jan 31, 2013 12:20 PM
just saw the other attempted posts about hydro - presume this was you Brian.
Tech data for ride heights on Hydro cars can be found here http://www.hydragas.co.uk/tech/ado15.html
Link to hydro pump here http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=hydrolastic+pump&_sacat=0&_from=R40
If you are having trouble getting the copper hydro pipes then try Somerford Mini. They made me a set and they fitted perfectly. They come coiled up so you have to shape them yourself. I used various metal paint tins to get the correct curves :)
Posted: Jan 31, 2013 12:29 PM
John
3 posts
Joined: 26/09/2004 21:28:07
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Hydrolastic subframe
Posted: Jan 02, 2005 09:55 PM
Body Shell Swap
The rear wings and B-post are different as well. The mk3 onwards door is about 1.5" longer to accomodate the revised loch mechanism. This means the rear wing has a different shape as well.
The inner front wings do not have the shock absorber mounting on a mk2 - but you could always leave this as the 'works upgrade' for hydrolastic. They unbolt and the holes are mastic'd over.
The Mk2 should really have a 4 vent sill. I've rebuilt mine with 6 vent heritage sills and consider it an upgrade otherwise BL wouldn't have spent the money on retooling. Mk3 onwards have 6 vent sills.
You will need to make quite a few brackets for the hydro pipes unless you cut them off the original - try somerford mini as they might have these rare parts.
There are no cutouts in the front panel of a Mk2 for air hoses. These will need plating over to prevent dirt splashing back through the grille.
The guttering is different but I'm not sure if the lower drip strip on the sides was deleted on the mk4 or the mk5. best do some research on that one.
The holes for the front subframe mounts will be different as the mk3 on started to use rubber blocks at the rear of the subframe rather than bolt to the floor. If you're refitting the mk2 subframe then move the holes acordingly and add new reinforcing plates as required. If you're doing a mk4 body with mk4 subframe then no problems expected.
hope that helps. it's a lot of work, not for the faint hearted and it'll never be original but hell, if it keeps another old girl on the road then go for it!
Posted: Nov 29, 2010 05:00 PM